Thursday, August 12, 2010

Raspberry gratin (in praise of ugly food)

One of the problems I have with summer produce is that the making-too-much-work-for-myself, creative part of me wants to try new things, combine produce with genius ingredients and chop or bake or blanch until perfect. But then I start eating the berries or peaches raw out of their little green box and then doing anything to them except putting them in my mouth seems sacrilegious. So when Deb of Smitten Kitchen posts some terribly awkward pictures of some lovely concoction that elevates raspberries to their singing best while leaving them basically raw, I didn't hesitate.

Deb's recipe calls for three ingredients: raspberries, sour cream, and dark brown sugar. I recently inherited dark brown sugar from a friend who was moving out of her apartment and needed a loving home for her baking supplies. But sour cream? They don't make that out of goat milk. I barely paused a second, though, because even in the days before my allergies were diagnosed and I regularly sullied my system with dairy products of every persuasion, I often used plain full-fat yogurt as a sub for sour cream. The adorable goats came through again.
However, this yogurt is quite runny and I knew I would need something of a more Greek consistency for this recipe. I jury-rigged a draining apparatus: paper towels laid in a sieve, balanced over a mixing bowl. Spooned about 2.5 cups of yogurt in, covered with another paper towel, and let drain for a couple hours. This process is necessary because regular yogurt has too much water, and will make this a runny, soggy mess if you don't drain it beforehand.
After draining the yogurt you fold it together with raspberries and top with brown sugar, then broil for a few minutes. The brown sugar melts and caramelizes and the yogurt gets barely warm, but the raspberries are only softened the smallest amount and it all melts together and gah. It is so good. I hope you will forgive these extremely unappetizing pictures and just believe me that this is the simplest, tastiest thing to do to raspberries. Even if they kind of look like brains afterwards.



Raspberry gratin (adapted from Smitten Kitchen)

This recipe has very simple proportions, and they can certainly be tweaked. I actually didn't measure anything - I used the raspberries I bought at the farmer's market, the yogurt I had left, and enough brown sugar to cover the top.

2 cups fresh raspberries, washed and dried very carefully
2.5 cups of full-fat yogurt, or 2 cups of Greek yogurt/sour cream
1 cup dark brown sugar

If using regular (ie not Greek) yogurt, "Greekify" it by lining a sieve with paper towels, spooning the yogurt in, covering and letting drain for a couple hours. I left it out on the counter but you can let this process happen in the fridge if you want.

Position the rack in your oven so that one if close to the broiler. Turn on the broiler.
Once you have the appropriate yogurt/sour cream substance, fold it together with the raspberries in a shallow dish or pan. Sprinkle the brown sugar over the top, evenly covering the surface.

Broil until the sugar starts to caramelize. It's best if eaten immediately, but can be refrigerated, covered. It will look even more horrible after spending some time in the fridge.

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Chilled cucumber soup with mint, dill, and yogurt

The farmers markets are full of cucumbers these days - big bins of knobbly dark green tubes, only surpassed by the enormous, baseball-bat-sized (seriously. like omg) zucchini. It's August. Late summer. My summer research project is due in about 2 weeks, but more importantly, cukes and zukes and tomatoes and stone fruit and berries will soon be gone, gone forever except for in mediocre incarnations in the produce section of Gin'Iggle. And by "forever" I mean next summer. But who knows where I will be next summer? Probably not here in Pittsburgh, with my beloved East Liberty farmers market.
Appropriately, the air is also full of a strange grey humidity -a stickiness that stops short of being truly hot. I expected this first week of August to be the most fierce in terms of heat, so I am grateful for the reprieve (no A/C in my third-floor walk-up). But the air is damp and heavy, and this is no time for stoves or ovens. Hence this soup - no heat is involved. You peel and chop some cukes, whirl them in the food processor with tangy yogurt and cool mint, refrigerate and eat. Refreshing and easy.
I mostly left this recipe as-is, since I can eat every ingredient and Shauna is a genius and her recipes rarely need tweaking. I adjusted the ratio of yogurt:cukes somewhat, upped the herbs because I always up the herbs, and played with a few other ingredients.
Chilled Cucumber Soup (barely adapted from Gluten-Free Girl)

3 cucumbers, peeled
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
1 1/2 teaspoons rice vinegar
16 ounces plain yogurt, preferably full-fat
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
1/4 cup soda water/seltzer
salt and pepper to taste

Chop up your cucumbers into pieces of a size that your food processor can handle. Toss these pieces in the food processor with everything else except the soda water/seltzer and the salt and pepper. Whiz until smooth. Add the soda water/seltzer and stir, then add salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour before eating (depends a lot on how cold your ingredients were to start with).